The word perfume—also called fragrance—is used to refer to a mixture of scents and is derived from the Latin word per fumus, which means through smoke. The art of creating perfume is called perfumery. Perfume has been around for thousands of years, and sometimes, certain scents were even used for religious ceremonies. Today, wearing perfume is considered a form of self-expression, and wearing the perfect fragrance can enhance your mood, boost your confidence, and leave a lasting impression on the people you interact with throughout the day. However, the process of finding the right perfume can be somewhat overwhelming and confusing for many. Consider this guide a crash course on perfume.
Chapters
Fragrance Concentrations
What is the difference between parfum, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne, and eau fraiche?
Perhaps the most confusing thing about perfume to beginners is fragrance concentration. It simply refers to how much pure perfume or fragrance oils the bottle contains. A higher concentration of oils means the perfume contains less alcohol, and more pure perfume oils. Therefore, the higher the concentration, the lesser the alcohol content, and usually, the more expensive the perfume.
There are primarily five different concentrations of fragrance ranging from highest to lowest: parfum, eau de parfum (EDP), eau de toilette (EDT), eau de cologne (EDC), and eau fraiche.
- Parfum: Parfum is known to have the highest concentration of perfume oils, somewhere between 20% to 40%, and is also referred to as extrait de parfum or pure perfume. It is heavier and oilier than the others on the list. As it contains less alcohol, it is suitable for people with sensitive skin, and it lasts the longest out of the five on the list, from anywhere between 8 to 12 hours, sometimes even for a full 24 hours.
- Eau de Parfum (EDP): Eau de parfum is the next highest on the list with a concentration between 15% to 20% and usually lasts for 4 to 5 hours. While it has more alcohol and water than parfum, it still contains a high amount of fragrance oils, and lasts for a fairly long time.
- Eau de Toilette (EDT): Eau de toilette is a lighter formula with a concentration between 4% to 15%. It is by far the most popular form of perfume out there and is often mistaken by people to be parfum. While it is definitely more affordable than parfum, due to its lower concentration of oils, it usually only lasts for 3 to 4 hours, and fades away much faster.
- Eau de Cologne (EDC): Eau de cologne is another light formula and has a concentration between 2% to 5%. It can last for up to 2 hours. There is a common misconception that eau de cologne is solely for masculine scents, but it is created for feminine scents as well.
- Eau Fraiche: Eau fraiche is the weakest on the list, with a concentration between 1% to 3%, and is generally only used to freshen up throughout the day. It is perhaps the least known of all types, and it lasts for about 1 hour before it completely dissipates. It is ideal for use while on a day out at the beach, or a picnic.
Apart from these, perfume oils, mists, and aftershave are also popular.
- Perfume oils have a pure oil base with no alcohol or water content. They usually have a 20% fragrance oil concentration, with the rest being a carrier oil. They last for up to 24 hours, sometimes even more.
- Mists are light and refreshing and are mostly composed of water with very low alcohol content. They have a concentration of 1.5% to 3%, and they last for a maximum of 2 hours.
- Aftershave is mainly used after shaving and has a high alcohol content. It has a concentration of around 3%, lasting for 1 to 2 hours at most.
Fragrance Notes
What are top, middle, and base notes in fragrances?
It is important to have an understanding of fragrance notes not only to find your signature scent, but also to master everyday self-expression with the use of perfume. Perfume is composed of fragrance notes the way a musical composition is composed of musical notes. These notes help describe the perfume and can assist you in identifying whether the perfume is something that you would enjoy wearing.
They are categorised into three classes based on their volatility, i.e., how quickly they evaporate: top (or head) notes, middle (or heart) notes, and base notes.
- Top Notes: Top notes—also referred to as head notes—have the highest volatility (they evaporate faster) and compose the top layer of the perfume. These are the scents that are detected immediately and lure people in, and they are quite significant as they make the first impression out of all three classes. Once they provide the initial scent, they fade away after a few minutes (anywhere between 5 to 15 minutes) to make room for the next class. Some popular top notes consist of scents such as lemon, orange, berries, lavender, and rose.
- Middle Notes: Middle notes—also referred to as heart notes—begin appearing once the top notes have begun fading. They work to retain the initial scent while also improving the impact of the base notes, which commonly are not the most pleasant at first impression. As the name suggests, these notes form the heart of the fragrance, and their presence is appreciable until the scent complete fades away. Some popular middle notes consist of scents such as jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang, lemongrass, and cinnamon.
- Base Notes: Base notes begin appearing once the middle notes have begun fading, and they bring power to the fragrance, acting as a solid foundation for the lighter notes. Notes in this class have the lowest volatility (they evaporate slower). Hence, they are the most long-lasting of all three. Base notes are rich, heavy, and intense, and they generally do not appear until after 30 minutes of application. They add depth to the fragrance, blending with the middle notes to leave an unforgettable impression. Some popular base notes consist of scents such as vanilla, amber, cedarwood, sandalwood, and musk.
Fragrance notes can be identified based on the amount of time that has passed since the application of the perfume. The top notes will be the most apparent right after the perfume is applied. Eventually after they fade, the middle notes take centre stage and act as the heart of the fragrance. Once the middle notes have started to fade out, the base notes take over and become the scent that people remember most. These three classes must work together in order for the perfume to be balanced and truly memorable.
Fragrance Types
What are the different types of perfume? How do you choose the right one for you?
Fragrances have commonly been classified into the two categories of traditional and modern for a long time. However, the fragrance wheel is a relatively newer classification tool that is gaining popularity among perfumers and perfume connoisseurs alike. One of the most notable versions is the Fragrance Wheel developed by perfumery taxonomist Michael Edwards in 1992. Understanding the way this wheel works can help you choose the right fragrance for you.
It is simply a circular diagram that depicts the inferred relationships among olfactory families (or groups) based upon the similarities and differences between the scents. An olfactory family is a set of scents that has been organised based on their similarities and complementary differences. The families closer to each other on the fragrance wheel share characteristics in their fragrances, while those that are further apart are distinctly different from each other.
There are four key olfactory families categorised by notes that feature one distinctive scent in each: floral notes, oriental notes, woody notes, and fresh notes. Within these, there are subfamilies that blend that distinctive scent with neighbouring families. Ideally, you would be attracted to one or two of these olfactory families, and it would be beneficial to check out the subfamilies that come under those to begin searching for your perfect fragrance.
- Floral Notes: This family is by far the most well-known and is used in innumerable popular fragrances. It is primary seen in feminine fragrances; however, it does sometimes play a small role in masculine fragrances as well. There are four subfamilies within this family: fruity notes (edible and tropical fruit scents such as peach, pineapple, and pear), floral notes (classic freshly-cut flower scents such as rose and lily), soft floral notes (soft, powdery, and creamy flower scents such as jasmine), and floral oriental notes (a blend of primarily floral and subtly spicy scents such as orange blossom). An example of a floral fragrance is Bloom by Gucci.
- Oriental Notes: This family is known for its rich, exotic, and spicy scents. It is generally full, heady, and opulent, and is often described as seductive. There are three subfamilies within this family: soft oriental (a blend of primarily spicy and subtly floral scents such as anise), oriental (sweet, warm, and spicy scents such as vanilla, cinnamon, and musk), and woody oriental (sweet, spicy, and earthy scents such as myrrh). An example of an oriental fragrance is Obsession by Calvin Klein.
- Woody Notes: This family is known for its warm, rich, and earthy scents that balance bitter and sweet. It can be soft and creamy or cool and earthy. It blends well with pretty much every other family on the wheel. There are three subfamilies within this family: woody (warm, dry, and aromatic scents such as sandalwood, cedarwood, and patchouli), mossy wood (earthy, sweet, and smooth scents such as amber and oakmoss), and dry wood (a blend of smoky wood and leather scents such as vetiver). An example of a woody fragrance is Vétiver by Carven.
- Fresh Notes: This family is known for its refreshing, clean, and bright scents. It is often paired with spicy notes for a more robust fragrance. Aromatic and tart notes are often blended with fruity and zesty scents to create fresh fragrances. There are four subfamilies within this family: aromatic notes (bright, woody, and subtly floral scents such as sage and lavender), citrus notes (zesty and tangy scents such as mandarin, grapefruit, and bergamot), water notes (fresh and ocean-like scents such as calone), and green notes (fresh and uplifting natural scents such as green leaves, grass, and water lily). An example of a fresh fragrance is Acqua di Gio by Armani.
Once you get an idea of how the fragrance wheel works, you can experiment and try blends of different notes from different families and see if they work for you.
Finding the perfect perfume is somewhat of a journey, and the process is very personal and intimate; it often requires experimenting as well. Scents tend to evoke personal memories and nostalgic feelings. It is important that you pay less attention to what the trends prescribe, and more attention to what scent calls out to you.
Regardless of the reason behind you seeking a new fragrance, be it for daily use or for special events, the more you feel at one with the scent as a person, the happier and more satisfied you will be with it for years to come.
Did You Know?
Growing up in a convent orphanage, French couturier Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel had always had an affinity for the number 5. In 1920, when she was presented with small glass vials containing sample scents for her assessment, numbered 1 to 5 and 20 to 24, she chose the fifth vial. Chanel said to her master perfumer—Ernest Beaux—whom she had commissioned to develop a new fragrance, “I present my dress collections on the fifth of May—the fifth month of the year—and so we will let this sample number five keep the name it has already; it will bring good luck.”
In 1921, Coco Chanel launched her first perfume—Chanel No. 5.
